Tuesday, March 1, 2011

My Last Post - I'm coming home!

So, two weeks have flown by. I'm glad I started this blog before I left Canada, because looking back at the first entries, I see some pre-conceptions and expectations that now seem kind of quaint.

I've had a great trip and learned a lot in these last two weeks: about the island of Taiwan, about my father, about my relatives in Taiwan, about my Taiwanese mother who passed away a few months ago, and about myself. Some of these things I've shared in this blog, and some of it I'll still keep to myself to think about some more.

My father was born in 1937 in a village in Shandong, in northern China, the third child of a wealthy landowner. My grandfather was a colonel in the Kuomintang army, and in 1949, the family gave up everything they owned to flee the Communist regime. In 1949, they settled in Taichung, Taiwan, and began scraping a new living for themselves. Today, Ba has an older sister who lives in Taichung, Taiwan, an older brother who lives in Toronto and a younger brother who is the primary guardian of their 100-year old father in Taipei.

My father lived 14 years in Taiwan, mainly catching up with his education, before moving again, this time for Canada, in 1963. There, he learned English, taught thousands of students to appreciate math, raised a family and became a Canadian. It is now Canada, where he has lived for 48 years, the major bulk of his life, that he calls home. Here in Taiwan, he often introduces himself as being from Canada and once, a lady even commented that his Chinese was not bad. I had always thought of myself as Canadian despite being Chinese "on the outside", and it was only when I came to Taiwan with my dad that I realized that he felt the same way about himself. Displaced from his homeland of Shandong, never feeling at home in Taiwan, he now identifies most strongly with Canada. Taipei and Taichung are now unrecognizable to him, which is probably a good thing, because life back then was poor and harsh. But even though Taiwan has prospered to become a developed country and an economic success story, Ba is still glad to be living in Canada. He is in fact, envious of me, because after two weeks, he is ready to go back too, to his home in Montreal. But he will stay one more week, to visit with his father and to get in touch with a couple more old friends.



I can see that it's an effort for my dad to be in Taiwan, from his forgetfulness with names of people and streets, from his constant fear of getting lost, his growing weariness with tourist activities, his struggle to remember how to write Chinese, and his frequent use of English, with the locals, when he can't remember the Chinese.

Last night at the hospital, I told my father to tell my grandfather that I enjoyed my visit to Taiwan and that I had learned a lot about my father. "You mean Yeh yeh," said my dad. "No, about you," I told him. He turned to me in surprise, totally unaware that this trip was such an eye-opener for me.




Growing up with my "traditional" Chinese parents in Canada, I had always thought that we suffered from a generation gap, a cultural gap and a language gap. And I did nurse a small chip on my shoulder about it. But I now see where they were coming from, literally, and can now understand a lot of things, and it has even helped me to see where I want to be going to.

My grandfather is still in the hospital. I saw him about three or four times in total, each time, he was lucid and in good spirits as he chatted with my dad. I'm not entirely sure what he is suffering from, but it may simply be his 100 year old body finally slowing down. The doctors are worried that his lungs may be getting filled with liquid, which will lead to pneumonia. My dad is very pragmatic about it. He loves his father, but, he says, sooner or later, my grandfather is going to die. I never got to ask my grandfather a lot of the questions I had in mind, but that's okay, along the way, I did find the answers I was looking for.

Before and After


Do you see the small buildings on the right side? When my father left here 48 years ago, these two-storey structures, narrow streets, fields and empty lots made up the city of Taipei. Times have a-changed.



Mmmmm, thanks, but really, we're full.



One of the drawbacks of being taken out to dinner by friends, is that you have to eat what they order even if you don't really like it. I've had oysters, stinky tofu, dried tofu, sea urchin, clams and crabs and candied squid. I'm not that big on seafood which is characteristic of authentic Taiwanese food. And although I like tofu, I think I've eaten enough to last me a few months.

Just a minute before this photo was taken, my dad watched his friend pick some of the "Taiwanese delicacies" out of the tank, and he secretly grimaced to me. He is also laughing because behind him, his friend is haggling with the restaurant staff over the price of the dish. My dad is like me - we are totally incapable and uncomfortable with haggling and are more used to just handing over the money.

See this fish? One second he was swimming quietly with his friends, and the next minute, he was served up sweet and sour with a side of rice. I'll admit, he was pretty delicious.






My dad's idea of dessert: yams, turnip, aduki beans, and rice starch balls. That's not dessert! That's a side of veggies!



And would you believe that this picture is not of soups but of desserts? My dad got very excited when he came across this in the food court below Taipei 101 and he immediately ordered a bowl. I went and got myself a grape gelato, which I think was the least unusual flavor they had. It wasn't bad.

Today, though, I found a food vendor on the street frying up my favorite Chinese dessert which is sticky sesame rice ball with red bean filling -it was still warm- yum, yummy! And Ba and I then found a dumpling diner, where we ate a plate of jowze (pork dumplings) for lunch. Jowze are originally from Northern China where they eat a lot of wheat products, like bread and noodles. Since the influx of mainlanders into Taiwan, these Chinese dishes or cuisine have now become very popular and can be found everywhere.